Training Commences In Minnesota!

BWBR training shared by instructor Leana Wallin is a positive training method.

The use of treats, a marker word or a clicker- help the dogs to associate and understand a common goal to be reached.

 
Training Tips:
1. When first teaching a dog any cue, (command), don't use words. They don't know any language but "dog", anyway. Here is a test for the humans: Ask someone to sit and cross their legs by saying only fruits. You can't use your hands. You can get quite exasperated when the person looks at you and does nothing. This is how the dog feels confused when the human comes up to him and starts spouting off commands and expects the dog to react appropriately. This is where abuse happens quite often. Never force a dog to do anything. Never hold them down on the floor. They are visual. Here is how to teach the "sit". Take a pea-sized piece of kibble and put it right on the dog's nose like a magnet. Go back over the head with your hand and the dog will sit. If the dog is reluctant, have the dog stand close to the wall and do the same thing. They will back into the wall and generally sit. Another way is to turn sideways and step up to the dog and lean over with your hip and shoulder. Not actually touching the dog physically. Their space has been invaded and they usually sit. Not one word was spoken nor was the dog touched. Just as the dog's behind is hitting the floor, say a marker word so that the dog knows a reward is coming. Be consistent with the marker word. I use "yes". I smile when I say it rather than frowning and saying "good".

2. Attention: In the beginning, have 10 pea-sized treats in one hand. Say the dog's name and when the dog turns his head, say the marker word, "yes" and give the dog the treat. Don't toss the treat. Do that for about 10 times. You want the dog to relate his name to only good things. A dog should never be called over by the human and punished. He will relate his name to bad things and be unwilling to come when called.

3. Feed your dog twice daily. If a pup, more, 3-4, depending upon the breed. Free feeding, (keeping the food available at all times) gives the dog too much unearned freedom. The owner can't monitor if the dog is eating enough or too much. The owner having control over the food is very important to the dog. The dog should sit and wait for the dish to be put on the floor and given the command, "ok" before he can eat. The food is only left on the floor for 10-15 minutes and then taken up. The empty dish is washed and put up. If the food isn't eaten, the dog eats only at the second meal and not any extra food to make up for the lost meal. Never let the dog eat alone. Isolation can create food aggression. I stand by the dog while he eats, put my hands in the dish, and hold the dish down with my feet while he eats. I also take the dish up and feed him a few pieces by hand, put a piece of cheese in the dish and put it back down as a reward to the dog. Be very cognizant of the quality of food your dog receives. Fish oil, Flax seed oil, olive oil, sardine oil are good to put in the food daily. Water in the dry food makes eating it easier and gives the dog more water, too. Raw meat, or raw fish filets are good additions as well as raw veggies. No onion though. Green beans, tomatoes, lettuce, spinach, carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, etc. are all good veggies for the dog. A high quality food keeps the vet away and the dog is much healthier and lives longer. For a good list of foods, go to: www.centralbirdanimal.com and print out the food list, ingredients to look for in foods, and all about raw bones. New foods that are good that aren't on the list as yet are: Nature's Variety, and Instinct.

 
Free Shaping: Within minutes they were sitting and laying on the towels.
 
Free shaping: patiently waiting for a desired behavior by handler; allowing it to happen on its own.

Towels were used and when the dog touched or looked at the towel, they received a click and treat.

 


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